Tomato Disease in Community Bed
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Tomato Disease in Community Bed
My father has been asking for my extra tomatoes to replace dying ones in a community bed. Is this Verticillium wilt? Best to pull entire plant or cut off infected parts? Happy to share my extras but would like to understand cause. I have only personally had to deal with septoria leaf spot.
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- Cole_Robbie
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Re: Tomato Disease in Community Bed
The stems without leaves look like horn worm damage. And the very curly leaf tops look like possible herbicide damage.
- MissS
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Re: Tomato Disease in Community Bed
To me it looks as if your plants have taken a beating from wind damage and hitting up against the cage. It became quite apparent in the fifth photo.
Photo #2 is a diseased plant. It's hard to tell what it is but it may be early blight. Remove the diseased leaves and spray with copper and or Daconil.
Try to support your plants a bit better so that they are not bouncing around in the wind and being hurt by your cages.
You do have a plant with leaf curl. That is something that is either environmental or too much nitrogen and I just don't usually worry about it too much.Photo #2 is a diseased plant. It's hard to tell what it is but it may be early blight. Remove the diseased leaves and spray with copper and or Daconil.
Try to support your plants a bit better so that they are not bouncing around in the wind and being hurt by your cages.
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- JRinPA
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Re: Tomato Disease in Community Bed
I hate to see stuff dying from the top down. Pics 2, 5, 7. 5 it looks like the stem itself is split?
Tough call about the replacement question. I can never get a good feel for damage/disease from pics.
When did it turn bad, did someone spray right before that, was there heavy wind? But seeing the tops die is generally, pull it and burn it asap, for me. Don't take a chance.
Tough call about the replacement question. I can never get a good feel for damage/disease from pics.
When did it turn bad, did someone spray right before that, was there heavy wind? But seeing the tops die is generally, pull it and burn it asap, for me. Don't take a chance.
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Re: Tomato Disease in Community Bed
It’s an organic garden, so no herbicides, and I am fairly sure nothing considered organic has been sprayed at all, no fertilizer or neem oil or anything else since at least after the seedlings were dropped off for planting. I can’t speak to what shape the seedlings were in when delivered. I should have mentioned that only the beefsteaks are affected, the cherry tomatoes are double the size with no issues. I will advise to pull the one diseased plant, cut off affected areas on others, bag it, and try to tie them so they are smashing against cage. I know there were issues before we had some winds last week, but maybe that compounded existing issues. Thank you for the insight!
- Shule
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Re: Tomato Disease in Community Bed
I don't see any obvious Verticillium signs, but the third picture with the curled leaves, I'm guessing the plant has root damage. It could be from the wind. Or, it could have a virus (possibly spread by leafhoppers), too much sun, or whatever. Sometimes trimming off the curling leaves helps, especially when the veins look succulent.NYTomatoNewbie wrote: ↑Mon Jul 01, 2024 12:11 pm My father has been asking for my extra tomatoes to replace dying ones in a community bed. Is this Verticillium wilt? Best to pull entire plant or cut off infected parts? Happy to share my extras but would like to understand cause. I have only personally had to deal with septoria leaf spot.
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We usually get a fair amount of curling leaves, but this year the wind has been minimal, and I don't see any so far. Coincidence? Maybe.
Location: SW Idaho, USA
Climate: BSk
USDA hardiness zone: 6
Elevation: 2,260 feet
Climate: BSk
USDA hardiness zone: 6
Elevation: 2,260 feet